after THE BEST TEST I’VE EVER TAKEN, i went to africa (morocco) with my dad, jess, and this girl from england, jennifer anne. it was quite the experience.
first of all, we had to meet my dad in algeciras, españa so that we could take the ferry across the straight of gibraltar. my dad had been backpacking in portugal for about a week and was making his way to spain to meet up with us. well, as it turns out, november 1st was a holiday and the buses, ferries, trains, etc were all messed up and had different schedules than normal so we ended up waiting for like 6 horus for him to meet us. this was all okay because i didnt really care… all i wanted was to see my dad! and when he finally got there it was amazing!! it was so awesome to see him, and of course i cried (i always cry). after some confusion and canceled ferries we got on the biggest boat that i’ve ever been on and made our way to ceuta (a spanish colony on the african coast, next to morocco). the weather was bad and the ferry ride was ridiculously rough. i ended up puking up the beer and sandwiches that my dad bought for me. oh well…
once we made it to the moroccan boarder, we were bombarded with the beginning of the craziness that is morocco. first we were approached by a man who was trying to scam us (like basically everyone else that we met) into paying him to “speed up the process of boarder crossing.” i was pretty sketched out and made it clear to everyone else that we probably shouldnt copy down our passport info onto these scraps of paper and hand them to a random, street-clothed moroccan man. i think they agreed, and we walked over to the boarded patrol to have our passports stamped. and it only took a few minutes, so speeding it up would have been a waste of money. once we got past the patrol we were in morocco, with nothing around; a dirt road, no street lights, no buildings, no stores, just a gang of taxis and 30 dudes trying to get us into one taxi or another. we ended up in an old, busted taxi with this guy named mohammed (im pretty sure thats what every moroccan man is named). we were stopped several times to check passports again and whatnot, and eventually were on our way to tangier (about an hour away by car). mohammed was an amazing driver, like a formual 1 racer, with no fear. he went around blind curves on winding mountain roads, while the headlights of his car flickered and the engine sputtered. the middle divider lines apparently meant nothing to him and he went from one side of the road to another with no concern for cars that might be coming… but i was never scared and i knew that he would get us there just fine… and he did.
after a night in tangier, we took a bus to rabat, the capital city. the bus station was a complete zoo, with 20 men trying to get you to buy a ticket with THEIR bus company (there were several to choose from, with no apparent differences or benefits in choosing one or another). the bus took a few hours, but once we got there we went straight to our hostel to get settled. the hostel, Rabat Youth Hostel, was really nice with seperate rooms for boys and girls and a really lovely atmosphere. almost immediately, we met two men from lybia who befriended us. Nuri, the son of an important diplomat of one kind or another, had been traveling and working as a lybian corrospondent for international relations (or something) for ten years. and abobaker, the son of a lybian farmer, who was studying to get his masters in international law. abobaker really took a liking to my dad and started to refer to him as “my father” and, after ignored attempts at flirtation with me, referred to me as “my sister”… hilarious. they invited us to eat couscous with them for the sabbath and then they offered to show us around rabat. we walked through an amazing street market with meat and animals brains sitting in the sun, and hundreds of people shopping; buying knock-off shoes and multi-colored scarves. after a lovely evening of traditional moroccan food, beer (which we had to wrap in newspaper so no one would know we were drinking it in a local restaurant), and coffee, we headed back to the hostel. there we met mohammed (yeah, thats right) a friend of nuri’s that worked at the hostel, and his dog (an amazingly sweet, well-trained german shepard) likka. we sat around drinking the best tea i think i’ve ever had (next to the cocoa tea that we drank while hiking the inca trail to machu picchu) and smoking joint after joint of moroccan hash. the boys were worried that my dad would not approve so they made me ask him if it was okay to smoke:
me: dad, you dont care if people are smoking hash, do you?
dad: no.
me: do you want to smoke?
dad: oh no… i havent smoked anything in 30 years
so we all sat around smoking while dad regaled us with storied of things hes smoked and drugs hes done throughout his life. my favorite story was when he was young and poor, he and his friends had heard that if you scrape the inside of banana peels, bake it, and smoke it you will get high. so they tried it and of course nothing happened. what a waste of time. haha.
while we were sitting around, abobaker (who is a member of an accomplished mens choir) agreed to sing a song (acapella) for us. it was incredible. it was a religious song of sorts (in arabic) about trying to get close to god, i think. it was really amazing and lasted for at least 5 minutes. it was really one of the highlights of the evening.
after dad went to bed, nuri told me the most intense, amazing story (after which he said that because of this, we must appreciate the beauty that we had right there… and of course the hash), which really made me think about my traveling and what i want to see in the world, what i want to get out of traveling, and what “seeing the world” really means. he told us that while traveling through africa, he stumbled upon a tiny village somewhere (whose name sounded ironically similar to cannibal). he said that it was already strange that he was there because the whole village knew each other and he was easily spotted as an outsider. all of a sudden he spotted something roasting over a fire, like a pig… but as he got closer he saw hands, feet, hair (it was a human). he was so scared and appauled that he said he ran from that place. he “ran for two days without stopping, without a want to stop.”
traveling is so beautiful and amazing but i forget that the traveling that i have done (expect for the limited poverty that i experienced in peru) i have been experiencing a very subjective sdie of travel. i hadnt stopped to think that in traveling (especially over the course of 10 years) one is bound to come across things that they would never want to see or which for anyone else to see. things that make the workld a strange and terrifying place. i saw that iwant to see the world: beauty and otherwise. but do i even know what that means? i dont think i have any fucknig idea. when nuri hugged and kissed me goodnight that evening, it sounded like he was about to cry, holding back tears. it really gave me a profound appreciation for the suffering and hurt that he must have seen over the years. what an amazing accomplished man.
the rest of the trip was pretty cool as well, although nothing compared to the time that we spent with these amazing people in rabat. we went to fés and spent less than a day there, seeing similar things as we did in rabat (an amazing market and interesting people) and finally headed back to tangier to take the ferry back to spain. the way back was a LONG and stressful trip, as we hurried back to málaga to meet my mom, who arrived on sunday morning.
i feel like i just barely scraped the surface of what we saw and experienced in morocco, but i wont keep you…