hnamrnrdk

last night was pretty tough. it was my last day of school yesterday, and after my final (and of course the monthly gathering of the kids in my class and our teachers for cervecas y tapas) i had to say goodbye to all those wonderful people. although i teared up a bit i didnt think i was going to cry. then, walking home by myself, wide-eyed and adoring granada, the water works started… and pretty much didnt stop. i got home and after some sudoku and a little siesta, the girls and i went to get churros and met a bunch of our friends there. we ate churros and talked and sat around for a few hours, taking up at much space in that little cafe as humanly possible… then outside for more talking and standing around, jess and i tearing up and hugging each other every few minutes (it made it so much better to know that we didnt have to say goodbye to each other). we hugged and kissed some people goodbye, and then TAPAS of course (jess, mad-E, gari, kelly, ryan, and me). we had a great time just having a few drinks and chatting, enjoying each other’s company. then more goodbyes, more tears. then home. we walked in and i went to turn on the tv to see what kind of fútbol was on: liverpool v chelsea. and believe it or not… THAT made me cry. i think it was just everything (saying goodbye and my LAST opportunity for churros con chocolate), but knowing that i cant just turn on the tv and be guarenteed a fútbol game really hit me kinda hard… and i couldnt stop. but thank granada my roommates where there. we watched the oc and ate trailmix and yadda yadda yadda… today was much better. but i sat down at the computer and started to feel sad. i browsed my blogroll and took a look at bookis’s blog, and was reminded of a special blog he wrote for me. including THIS magnificant picture. i feel much better! thanx bks.

so im sitting here at paddy’s, my favorite local irish pub in granada. i come here quite alot, hang out with the bartenders (paddy of course, niall, and tony), laugh at the local drunks, and meet random people who turn out to be really cool fuckers. for example, last night jess and i came out to paddy’s to have a drink or two (paddy is a cocktail artist and makes the best long islands around). whilst we were sitting here, getting drunk and chatting it up with tony, we met a funny, old english guy from birmingham named dave. he seemed like a great guy, and told us that if we came back for the liverpool game tomorrow (that would be today) morning then he’d accept the pleasure of buying us a pint. how could we resist?

so i woke up to a call from my friend elliott to see if i was going to come watch the game (what a good friend to remind me that i had a free beer waiting for me). i woke jess up to see if she wanted to come too, got my computer and whatnot together, and walked to paddy’s. when we got here it was pretty dead, but there was dave waiting for us. [as ive been sitting here writing, my friend jack comes around and starts to read over my shoulder. he's english by the way. he wants to be written about in this blog, so i'm going to give him that pleasure.... in a minute... just wait jack, GEEZ.]

so jess and i just sat around thinking about the beers that we wanted to be drinking, and dave brought us a couple of pints. it was perfect… just as i was thinking to myself, “man, my mouth is dry and the only thing to quench this thirst is a beer,” dave presented us with the best and only thing i could have wanted at that moment. so we buggered off our computers and chatted it up with our new british friend. hes a middle-aged character, hanging out in granada, obviously living his life to the fullest. he told us about his son who is fluent in spanish and studying to be a spanish/english teacher. then he pulled out this little tin box and told jessica to go roll a joint (of what he called pollen… basically like condensed keef) in the girls bathroom. so she did. and we walked down the street to the little plaza about a block away, sat on the city bench, and smoked (for my first time since morocco).

when we came back, i decided that it was time to approach jack. oh jack… where do i start? 6 foot 6. body of a greek god. brains like ive never encountered and the face of an angel. but he’s got the eyes of a psychopath. he was of course was here when i got here, yelling and screaming about the game. 4-2. (he wanted to make sure i included that score… the most important part of this blog, if you ask me.) since he had been a bit preoccupied earlier and i didnt want to get punched in the face or the like by interrupting the game… but i thought that it was safe since it was all over, and they had won. so we talked about worldly accents, beastiality, pedophiles, and shark attacks. what a thrilling conversation.

so now here i am, chatting on AIM for the first time in forever, watching more (unimportant, jack tells me) fútbol games, drinking pint after pint of amstel (its all i can afford), and getting lots of mixed nuts from niall, my favorite bartender. as the bar gets more and more busy, and i start to hear more and more languages all around me, i am suddenly struck with the realization that soon i will be back in the states… where everyone speaks english, you dont get free food with your beers, and shawarma is not around ever corner and always open. i will miss my favorite bars, cigarette machines, and all the amazing, wonderful, open, interesting people that i have had the pleasure of meeting here in granada, and all along the way.

now before i get too emotional and start crying (for the… 2nd time) in paddy’s i will have to sign off, and remember that i dont have so say goodbye to granada YET. i guess its time for another pint…

so i know i havent really posted anything lately, and i sure have been up to quite a lot… but now it not the time to tell you all of that. here a little story about something that i saw on the streets of granada today…

i was walking home from school this afternoon at about 3.15 or so, walking along the river, soaking up the sun, and humming softly to myself. i had had a rough morning and was thinking way too much about having to go home soon, so i was doing all i could to put a smile on my face when all of a sudden i saw something scarry and disturbing (which did not help my mood).

i came to the corner of bar and restuarant and saw several people standing around, talking in spanish (claro). as i approached the crowd i saw what was causing the commotion… a dead guy. well, i’m guessing that he was dead because he was flat on the ground, lifeless, colorless, and seemingly dead. people were talking in whispered voices saying things like “la policia” and “emergencia.” i slowed down and tried to offer my phone to someone to make the call, but they were already calling the police.

i stopped for a couple minutes just to observe the strange picture that i was seeing on the streets of my beautiful town. the man, a dark complected spaniard, was completely lacking color in his face. he was lying half on / half off the curb that rose a few inches over the paved road. his face lay flat on the concrete, a cigarette next to his white lips. i cant be sure if it was there before or if it had been in his mouth, but there it was… half smoked, lonely and begging to be finished. his cold fingers were spread against the pavement and his feet twisted in an unnatural way, legs sprawled behind his body. there was a motor bike and a car practially covering him, but it wasnt at all as though he had been hit, but maybe collapsed there between the vehicles. a man was trying to move the bike to give him some air and maybe try to do CPR. i was too depressed and saddened by this scene to stick around much longer, but i asked someone to make sure that the police were coming and headed the rest of the way to my house.

when my roommates got home, we were all sitting around in the kitchen and i told them this story… starting with the titular line “i think i saw a dead guy today.” they were startled but agreed that it was a perfect title for my blog.

so there you have it. weird. i hope that i dont see anything else like this in my last weeks in granada. its usually such a homey, lovely place. much amor…

welp, my parents (and auntie sarah and uncle craig) just left granada, and it was really the best time i have had with my parents in years. it was really amazing to be able to show them around my new home, impressing them with my spanish, and really talk to them as an adult, and have them drinking with me and talking to me as an adult, a real person, rather than their daughter.

dad and i met mom (much later than we had said, making her think that we had both died in africa) in málaga on sunday night and took the bus to granada. i dropped them off at the hotel and agreed to meet them after class the next morning. we spent the next afternoon at the cathedral (where i gave them a tour, repeating the things that i could remember from when marie and i got the audio guide a week or so before… and i think i did a pretty good job) and shopping in the albazín. that night, we went out for a couple tapas and met up with jess and maddie to have a few drinks. it was really fun! mom admitted to me that she smoked pot (LESS THAN A WEEK BEFORE SHE GOT TO GRANADA) with a family friend… and showed some interest in smoking with me, although that never materialized, which is fine. she also told me that her friend has been reading this blog (instead of the censored one) and saw the videos of me and jess “high on dope” in amsterdam. HAHA… (kirsten, if you are reading this.. that would be YOU. and i cant believe your girls saw those videos. that was not my intention…) we all got pretty sloshed and went home late. the next night was about the same. we met up with elliott peet and had a couple tapas at a little bar, where a guy was playing classical guitar, which my dad really loved. then the girls [jess, maddie, and gari (my greek roommate, who is studying to get her masters in nutrition)] met up with us and we had a couple more drinks and went to patty’s, the local irish bar. i met patty a few weeks ago and i wanted him to meet my parents because he’s hilarious and i thought he’d think it was cool to meet them… plus i though my dad would like to have a guiness and watch some fútbol. we had a couple cocktails and my mom told me she was about to be on her ass, so they went home. the rest of the night was cool… i got the phone number of a boy i have a crush on and then ran right into a glass door and bruised my forehead. how embarassing for me.

the next day, my aunt and uncle arrived in granada. it was like a little family reunion (but i was the only kid). it was great to have them here as well!! they are like my surrogate parents in seattle and i had been missing them alot. we went out for paella and churros con chocolate, and then went to bed. we pretty much bar hopped everynight after that, and went to a wine/olive oil tasting place one night too. we also went to the alhambra, which was pretty fucking amazing (although i must admit that, even though i dont know what beat the alhambra as one of the new seven wonders of the world, im not THAT surprised that it didnt win. it was really cool and beautiful, but its kind of just another castle, and i happen to think that it is MORE impressive from the outside than the inside… just my opinion, so dont flip out, alhambra lovers). we also went to mass at the cathedral (which was a bust) and hiked up past the city to a peak that overlooked the entire city, the alhambra, with the sierras in the background… now THATs what i call amazing… can a view win for one of the seven wonders?

then yesterday i had to say goodbye to all of them. it was really hard, although i know i will see all of them in less than two months. but it makes it really hard when i am so far away from my parents all the time and dont get to spend much time with them anyways. plus, when my mom and dad cry when they say goodbye to me, it really breaks my heart. and of course i was crying. and the walk home was really hard after saying goodbye. i had just had such an amazing week with them, and was really able to open up to them in a way that i never have before, so saying goodbye was terrible. and walking home afterward, all alone and sad, was horrible. and people kept staring at me because i was walking and crying. geez.

but oh man… memories for a lifetime. so thanx mom and dad, and sarah and craig.

after THE BEST TEST I’VE EVER TAKEN, i went to africa (morocco) with my dad, jess, and this girl from england, jennifer anne. it was quite the experience.

first of all, we had to meet my dad in algeciras, españa so that we could take the ferry across the straight of gibraltar. my dad had been backpacking in portugal for about a week and was making his way to spain to meet up with us. well, as it turns out, november 1st was a holiday and the buses, ferries, trains, etc were all messed up and had different schedules than normal so we ended up waiting for like 6 horus for him to meet us. this was all okay because i didnt really care… all i wanted was to see my dad! and when he finally got there it was amazing!! it was so awesome to see him, and of course i cried (i always cry). after some confusion and canceled ferries we got on the biggest boat that i’ve ever been on and made our way to ceuta (a spanish colony on the african coast, next to morocco). the weather was bad and the ferry ride was ridiculously rough. i ended up puking up the beer and sandwiches that my dad bought for me. oh well…

once we made it to the moroccan boarder, we were bombarded with the beginning of the craziness that is morocco. first we were approached by a man who was trying to scam us (like basically everyone else that we met) into paying him to “speed up the process of boarder crossing.” i was pretty sketched out and made it clear to everyone else that we probably shouldnt copy down our passport info onto these scraps of paper and hand them to a random, street-clothed moroccan man. i think they agreed, and we walked over to the boarded patrol to have our passports stamped. and it only took a few minutes, so speeding it up would have been a waste of money. once we got past the patrol we were in morocco, with nothing around; a dirt road, no street lights, no buildings, no stores, just a gang of taxis and 30 dudes trying to get us into one taxi or another. we ended up in an old, busted taxi with this guy named mohammed (im pretty sure thats what every moroccan man is named). we were stopped several times to check passports again and whatnot, and eventually were on our way to tangier (about an hour away by car). mohammed was an amazing driver, like a formual 1 racer, with no fear. he went around blind curves on winding mountain roads, while the headlights of his car flickered and the engine sputtered. the middle divider lines apparently meant nothing to him and he went from one side of the road to another with no concern for cars that might be coming… but i was never scared and i knew that he would get us there just fine… and he did.

after a night in tangier, we took a bus to rabat, the capital city. the bus station was a complete zoo, with 20 men trying to get you to buy a ticket with THEIR bus company (there were several to choose from, with no apparent differences or benefits in choosing one or another). the bus took a few hours, but once we got there we went straight to our hostel to get settled. the hostel, Rabat Youth Hostel, was really nice with seperate rooms for boys and girls and a really lovely atmosphere. almost immediately, we met two men from lybia who befriended us. Nuri, the son of an important diplomat of one kind or another, had been traveling and working as a lybian corrospondent for international relations (or something) for ten years. and abobaker, the son of a lybian farmer, who was studying to get his masters in international law. abobaker really took a liking to my dad and started to refer to him as “my father” and, after ignored attempts at flirtation with me, referred to me as “my sister”… hilarious. they invited us to eat couscous with them for the sabbath and then they offered to show us around rabat. we walked through an amazing street market with meat and animals brains sitting in the sun, and hundreds of people shopping; buying knock-off shoes and multi-colored scarves. after a lovely evening of traditional moroccan food, beer (which we had to wrap in newspaper so no one would know we were drinking it in a local restaurant), and coffee, we headed back to the hostel. there we met mohammed (yeah, thats right) a friend of nuri’s that worked at the hostel, and his dog (an amazingly sweet, well-trained german shepard) likka. we sat around drinking the best tea i think i’ve ever had (next to the cocoa tea that we drank while hiking the inca trail to machu picchu) and smoking joint after joint of moroccan hash. the boys were worried that my dad would not approve so they made me ask him if it was okay to smoke:

me: dad, you dont care if people are smoking hash, do you?
dad: no.
me: do you want to smoke?
dad: oh no… i havent smoked anything in 30 years

so we all sat around smoking while dad regaled us with storied of things hes smoked and drugs hes done throughout his life. my favorite story was when he was young and poor, he and his friends had heard that if you scrape the inside of banana peels, bake it, and smoke it you will get high. so they tried it and of course nothing happened. what a waste of time. haha.

while we were sitting around, abobaker (who is a member of an accomplished mens choir) agreed to sing a song (acapella) for us. it was incredible. it was a religious song of sorts (in arabic) about trying to get close to god, i think. it was really amazing and lasted for at least 5 minutes. it was really one of the highlights of the evening.

after dad went to bed, nuri told me the most intense, amazing story (after which he said that because of this, we must appreciate the beauty that we had right there… and of course the hash), which really made me think about my traveling and what i want to see in the world, what i want to get out of traveling, and what “seeing the world” really means. he told us that while traveling through africa, he stumbled upon a tiny village somewhere (whose name sounded ironically similar to cannibal). he said that it was already strange that he was there because the whole village knew each other and he was easily spotted as an outsider. all of a sudden he spotted something roasting over a fire, like a pig… but as he got closer he saw hands, feet, hair (it was a human). he was so scared and appauled that he said he ran from that place. he “ran for two days without stopping, without a want to stop.”

traveling is so beautiful and amazing but i forget that the traveling that i have done (expect for the limited poverty that i experienced in peru) i have been experiencing a very subjective sdie of travel. i hadnt stopped to think that in traveling (especially over the course of 10 years) one is bound to come across things that they would never want to see or which for anyone else to see. things that make the workld a strange and terrifying place. i saw that iwant to see the world: beauty and otherwise. but do i even know what that means? i dont think i have any fucknig idea. when nuri hugged and kissed me goodnight that evening, it sounded like he was about to cry, holding back tears. it really gave me a profound appreciation for the suffering and hurt that he must have seen over the years. what an amazing accomplished man.

the rest of the trip was pretty cool as well, although nothing compared to the time that we spent with these amazing people in rabat. we went to fés and spent less than a day there, seeing similar things as we did in rabat (an amazing market and interesting people) and finally headed back to tangier to take the ferry back to spain. the way back was a LONG and stressful trip, as we hurried back to málaga to meet my mom, who arrived on sunday morning.

i feel like i just barely scraped the surface of what we saw and experienced in morocco, but i wont keep you…

so yesterday, after Marie Sullivan (Eggertsen) left granada, i had a final for the courses that im taking. i studied at café flores near my school for a couple hours and then walked to school to take the test. as usual, most people in my class were late and when the sub showed up to administer the test, she was quite surprised by the shortage of persons in the room. eventually the rest of the class showed up and we all sat down, test infront of us, ready to prove all that we had learned this month. and how.

and (as the title may hint toward) it was the best test i’ve ever taken. and the most interesting test atmosphere that i could have ever imagined. at first everything was normal, or at least what we would consider normal in the states. and i never even thought that things would be different in a testing atmosphere. i guess i just assumed that quietly, privatly working on a test was a universal way of showing what you have learned… but i was wrong. in the states people cheat and look at other people’s answers, but not only is it completely hushed, but you can get in serious trouble at a university (or high school i guess) for cheating. you can get kicked out of school… and, well, then your life would be ruined. also in america, people who study and try hard dont want to share their answers with people that dont try so hard by covering their answers. but in europe they just dont do it like that.

shortly after the test was started, the teacher left the room and shut the door and it was like someone flipped a switch. everyone started talking and laughing and asking everyone else for answers to the test.  but it wasnt as if we were cheating… it was like we were all working together to get the best grade possible.  i guess it was because the entire month we had been working together, helping each other in one way or another and bouncing answers off each other to get it right, that once the test came around we needed to help each other and collaborate to do well.  its like when you are told to study in the same environment or under the same conditions in which you learned the material, we had to use each other’s knowledge and expertise to get the answers.  it was magnificent… plus it kind of blew my mind how naturally and quickly we all reverted to helping each other the second that we were not being watched. 

after the test i was talking to this kid, anders from germany, about what had happened.  he was surprised that in the states we dont do things like that.  he said that in croacia (where he attended high school) and everywhere in europe that he has studied, this is how it is done.  he had an interesting take on the situation:  if you could take a test on your own and do decently well… and in the end get a decent job and make decent money OR take a test with the help of your peers, get a better grade, get a better job, and make better money; which would you choose?  i guess i’d choose the latter. 

oh europe… you never cease to amaze me.

and as it turns out, i did really well on the test (even the parts that i did all on my own).

¡vale! i finally found out my address in granada… here it is. you can send me stuff if you want.

Hannah Duke
Calle Profesor Augustin Escribano Nu.5 1º A-2
18004 Granada, España

and one more time, my phone number is:
(country code 34) 654 98 66 31

¡vale!

brittany just left granada.  she came to visit for the weekend and jess and i got to show her all around town.  i introduced her to my friends and the spanish way of life… we even took her to the traveling spanish circus! i know what you’re thinking: “whats the big deal? they have traveling circuses (or is it circi?) in the states.”  well i’ll tell you what the big deal was… it was in SPANISH, so back off. it was really cool and weird and funny.  i was REALLY excited about going because i had seen flyers all of the city advertizing for the circus since i arrived in granada. i even took one of the posters off of a building, took it home, and hung it in my room!

in general it was pretty awesome. brittany, jess, madelaine, elliott, ryan, and i drank a couple beers smoked a joint or two and headed out to walk to the circus. the evening was kind of rainy but there was a cool sunset with two rainbows and all kinds of pretty clouds. as the sun went down the clouds looked more and more ominous behind the big blue and white tents. it was very old fashioned and, well, exactly what i expected from a european traveling circus. but once i was actually there i had the same reaction that i have when i go to the zoo.  its fun and cool and i expect it to be really awesome to see the animals and everything… but then i just end up feelings terrible and sad because im pretty sure the animals are sad and bored and overworked.  there were dacing dogs and monkeys that had roller skates and rode bikes and lifted up their dresses to show us their undies.  there were bears that could do handstands and walk on a giant moving ball.  there were snakes and crocodiles.  AND there was a fluffy cat that walked across this suspended platform thing with a bird riding on its back.  plus a bunch of human freaks… acrobats and like that woman from cirque du soleil who could bend in half backwards.  GROSS.  and spiderman was there. he did some crazy things like jumping rope balanced on a board that was balanced on a cylinder thing. (i got it on video) oh, and there was a comedy act with two clowns (who played saxophones) and one sort of serious guy (who played the trumpet)… oh geez, they were great. just telling jokes and throwing water on each other and falling down.  physical comedy at its finest.  we just sat in the back and drank beer and ate cotton candy and enjoyed the spectical that was CIRCO QUIROS. oooweee.

now brittany is gone and i have a BUSY few weeks ahead of me in terms of visitors and traveling and whatnot. this weekend, jess and i are going to go to sevilla just to get away for a bit and see some stuff. then MARIE is coming to see us on the 24th (thats next wednesday i think) and will be here until the 30th. then my DAD gets here on the 31st. my MOM gets here on the 4th (i think). and finally my AUNT and UNCLE get here on the 7th (i think) and they all stay until the 12th (or something). then the week before thanxgiving jess’s MOM gets here and then BRITT is coming back to granada for thanxgiving. im so excited about all the uncoming events and visitors and i cannot wait to see everyone. its just going to be a little EXHAUSTING.

all my love.

first of all, i’d like to do a QUICK recap of the places that jess and i have been in the last 4+ weeks, starting when i left seattle…

august 26 – to NYC
august 29 – to London
august 31 – to Amsterdam
september 4 – to Interlaken, Switerland (to skydive)
september 6 (tasha’a birthday) – to Gimmelwald, Switzerland
september 8 – to Florence bwo Milan
september 10 – to Cinqueterre bwo Spezia
september 12 – to Rome
september 15 – to Pisa – to Venice
september 19 – to Prague
september 22 – to Krakow, Poland
september 24 – to Berlin
september 25 – to Paris (to meet brittbritt)
september 28 – to Irun, España (on our LONG way to Granada)
september 29 – to GRANADA bwo Madrid

okay, so here it is. now i’m living in granada, españa right now and i will be here until the end of december. so far, it is the best thing EVER. after one night on the streets and several days in various hostels, jess and i finally found an apartment to rent for the next three months. we are living with madelaine, a girl from uw that we met when we got here, and a little south korean girl who doesnt really talk to us, has a boyfriend, and spends ALL day on saturdays cooking strange food in the kitchen (forcing us to stay in bed until 4pm so we could finally make food… tough life, huh?). our apartment is really awesome… it has large bedrooms, two big balconies, a big kitchen, a washing machine, AND a tv. haha… like i can even understand whats happening on the tv anyways, but its there. and our landlord is the sweetest man ever. when we went to meet him to sign the lease, it was awesome and scary. his wife was interrogating me in spanish about this and that and i could actually understand and communicate with her. it was exhilarating!! after we signed the lease, he took my hand and very sincerely told me that if we need ANYTHING in the city that we can call him. he said (in spanish) “if you are at a restaurant and someone is giving you a hard time, you call me. if you are at the mall and you bought too much stuff to carry home, you call me and i’ll come get you.” what a freakin sweetheart. he also wants to introduce us to his daughters. coolness.

we live about 30 minutes (walking) from the building where i have classes everyday from 930-130 with a 20minute break at 1130. my classes are going really well and i feel like i will be able to excel in them. i am in the middle of the skill level in my classes, so i am able to help others and there are students who are able to help me… so i feel like already i am learning alot. i am also learning to converse in stores and bars and when we meet random argentinian boys on the streets and have a beer with them. its really interesting the people that you meet and how everyone ended up in granada. its great because the majority of people in granada (save the students in my classes) dont speak english so i am forced to use the spanish that i know, also retaining the things that i hear and trying to re-use them in conversation.

now i know you are all wondering… whats up with the weed in españa? well, i’ll tell you. first of all, it is illegal to buy and sell weed, but it is legal to have up to 8grams (for person use) on you at any time… it is also tolerated to smoke on the streets, although i think it is better to smoke in your house or something. it is extremely easy for us to get it… and here’s what we do. near our school is a large, hoppin square called Plaza Nueva. off of this plaza is a little street with various tributaries that i like to call “shake-down street.” its just a bunch of little shops and hole-in-the-wall type of places with some apartments and whatnot. so anyways, you walk up one of the streets to a dead-end where you see a large pot leaf painted on the wall. you buzz apartment 1ºD. sometimes the lady (or one of her sons?) sticks her head out of the window to see who it is, sometimes they just buzz you in. you walk up the stairs and ask the simple question “¿tienes marijuana?” to which she always replies SI. you pay 10€ for about 1 – 1.5 grams and you leave. hasta luego, señora. anyways, shes really nice and reliable and its the shit.

im really getting to know my way around the city. its so awesome that i live kind of far away because then i get the chance to walk around more and force myself to find the shortest, easiest, or most fun ways to get from place to place en pie (that means by foot). basically im having the best of the best of times… im meeting lots of people and getting along great with my roommates. the only problem is that i ripped one of my two pairs of pants (leaving me with only one pair of jeans to wear) and i only have like 4 shirts… so im starting to get sick of my clothes. i might need to do some shopping… other than that, things are just PEACHY!

im off to run some errands before siesta and everything closes. i love you all and i miss you TONS! i will try to post again soon. all my love.

oh… also, if you want to call me i have a cell phone now. the number is 654986631 and i think the country code for spain is 34. hope to hear from you all soon.

we made it!  we are now looking for an apartment and taking our placement tests tomorrow.  more when we get settled! lovelove.